Colmar, the beauty of Alsace
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The art of half-timbering sublimated in Colmar
Colmar is home to countless half-timbered houses. The technique was perfected in the 15th century. The Alsatians introduced short posts between the storeys.
This technique made it possible to dismantle the house and reassemble it elsewhere. The timber sections are numbered, making it easy to put the jigsaw together again. Those Alsatians are no fools!
Have fun looking for the remaining numbers here and there!
Why wood? It’s simple – it’s everywhere. The Vosges forest covers part of Alsace.
This is why the streets of Colmar are full of magnificent houses that give the town the air of a house of cards.
The pedestrianised centre – a protected area – boasts examples ranging from the 14th century to the 18th century. From medieval Gothic and Renaissance influences to Classicism, Colmar’s architectural palette is first-rate.
Note the details, such as these ‘oriels’: bay windows that sometimes form a room in their own right.
Remarkable architecture
Colmar sometimes gives the impression of having stood still in time. No doubt due to the excellent preservation of its buildings.
Strolling around the town centre is a delight. We give you a few suggestions not to be missed
The Adolph houses (late 14th century), the ‘Huselin zum Swan’ house on Rue Schongauer.
The magnificent Pfister house (1537) and the equally beautiful ‘Heads’ house, decorated with 111 heads and grimacing masks.
Not forgetting the imposing public buildings, such as the Koïfhus (Old Customs House).
The Dominican church and the collegiate church of Saint-Martin set the religious scene. In the latter, Martin Schongauer’s masterpiece ‘The Virgin with the Rose Bush’ is not to be missed. The painting can be seen for a modest entrance fee and a little patience.
The merchant power (the bourgeois houses of the merchants) and the religious power (collegiate churches, churches, convents) meet in Colmar.
But how can you not rush off to ‘Little Venice’? It’s a postcard of charm, with its canals – two main ones and a few secondary ones – and its pretty, colourful houses.
You can’t miss the bridge over the Lauch and the former covered market, now home to bars and restaurants.
The many red padlocks hanging from the railings are a reminder of just how much the town is appreciated for its romanticism.
Unterlinden: an essential museum
The jewel in Colmar’s crown! The museum is housed in a 13th-century convent and 2 other buildings, one of which is very modern.
It takes its name from Saint John under the lime tree (under der linde).
The museum buildings are linked by an underground gallery. On the downside, it’s not always easy to find your way around. The museum is huge, with many large rooms.
Like its jewel, the Issenheim Altarpiece. A polyptych altarpiece depicting the life and death of Jesus. It is the work of Grünewald.
Strikingly realistic, sparing nothing of the torments endured by the Son of God, the altarpiece is a thing of beauty. An excellent audio guide is available at the ticket office to help you understand the rich symbolism of the paintings.
The chapel underwent a 4-year restoration. But the setting in which the altarpiece is now housed is worthy of this masterpiece.
The museum’s other rooms, with their rich collections, are also worth a visit.
Finally, the Musée Unterlinden organises first-rate temporary exhibitions. On her visit www.lisbonne-affinités.com, admired ‘Colour, Glory and Beauty/Germanic Paintings in French Collections (1420-1540)’. The exhibition runs until 23 September 2024.
for information https://www.musee-unterlinden.com/exposition/
The tourist office is located opposite the museum https://www.tourisme-colmar.com/en/
The Colmar region
Colmar is the wine capital of Alsace. The town is located on the plain, but the hillsides on which the vines grow are not far away.
Nearby is the Parc Naturel des Ballons des Vosges, and further north, as its name suggests, the Parc Naturel des Vosges du Nord.
In addition to the natural beauty of the area, which is a jewel in its own right, there are many walks and cycle rides, farm inns and villages to visit.
The wine route runs between Thann to the south of Colmar and Marlenheim to the north. Views, heritage and, of course, the famous wines are all along this prodigious corridor.
In the immediate of Colmar, there are a number of villages well worth a visit.
Here are two to discover.
Hunawihr (whir meaning village and, more precisely, fishpond village) is listed as one of the most beautiful villages in France. Situated half an hour from Colmar, it is a winegrowers’ village with beautiful typical houses.
At the entrance to the village, standing on a promontory, is a fortified church dating back to the 10th century. It is unique in that it is dedicated to both the Catholic and Protestant rites.
Riquewhir, a 7-minute drive from Hunawhir, is a very pretty village, also dedicated to wine, which is picturesque and authentic, and easy to visit on foot.
It can be very busy, so avoid the high season. Riquewhir is a fortified village with some fine 16th to 18th century houses, protected by its ramparts.
If there’s still time, there’s the not-to-be-missed ‘Route des cinq châteaux’ tourist route, starting in Wintzenheim. The ruined medieval fortresses along the way to Eguisheim add an extra touch of mystery.
Colmar Informed
The centre of Colmar is just a fifteen-minute walk from the SNCF station. A great way to visit the historic centre.
Where to stay?
Our recommendation is the room – for 2 people – at Madame Meyer’s (on the arbnb platform). About fifteen minutes’ walk from the station, a little way from the city centre, the accommodation is in a detached house. Excellent value for money, with the added bonus of Christiane Meyer’s warm yet discreet welcome. Our favourite
Where to eat?
Le 3
Le 3 restaurant is located at 4 rue de l’église. Run by two friends, Brice and Chistophe, for the last 5 years, it serves lunch and dinner from Tuesday to Saturday. Tastefully decorated, Le 3 serves traditional cuisine at reasonable prices. In season, asparagus, a real treasure of the local gastronomy.
At ‘3’ you’ll receive a friendly, professional welcome, even if you’re on your own. It’s not like the Hansi in the main street, which should be avoided because of its detestable welcome.
@le3.restaurant_colmar
La Stub
Home of the tarte flambée, a speciality of Colmar and the region. Located at 72, Grand Rue, La Staub offers several versions of its speciality. However, the traditional version is a sure bet, with a base of home-made pastry, onions, bacon and a mixture of cream and fromage blanc.
La Stub
Home of the tarte flambée, a speciality of Colmar and the region. Located at 72, Grand Rue, La Staub offers several versions of its speciality. However, the traditional version is a sure bet, with a base of home-made pastry, onions, bacon and a mixture of cream and fromage blanc.
The streussel, a sweet version with apples and cinnamon, is delicious. The restaurant is a branch of a farm inn in Munster.
Where to have a drink and a snack?
L’un des sens, 18 rue Berthe Molly. Gourmet plates, traditional homemade dishes. Quality raw materials. A tapas atmosphere and a pleasant terrace area. Wine and beer bar. Warm and relaxed atmosphere. The only downside is the fairly high prices, especially for the wines, which limits the tasting experience.
Shopping?
Authentiques Saveurs d’Alsace’ shop (Maison Malker), 78 Grand Rue. Here you’ll find delicious ‘home-made’ Munster cheese (from a farm and inn in the Munster AOC region), as well as typical charcuterie, sauerkraut and specialities such as meat pie. Beautiful objects, such as Friedmann pottery, typical of the region (Kougelhopf moulds, terrines, eggcups, etc.). Beautiful, good food and a starred welcome.
Le délice du Koiffus’ shop, 14 rue des Tanneurs. Wines, foie gras, jams, beers, liqueurs, souvenirs and postcards. A very friendly and wide range of quality food products.
Once again, we would like to thank Alsace Destination Tourisme for their sound advice and suggestions https://www.alsace-destination-tourisme.com/