Epur: the refinement of a Michelin-starred restaurant
The Epur restaurant by French chef Vincent Farges
Epur, as in ‘refined’. A restaurant that lives up to its name, given the refined and elegant nature of the cuisine served there.
French chef Vincent Lafarge opened it in 2018 in Chiado, right in the heart of Lisbon. The Michelin star he earned the following year with his team highlighted the chef’s inventiveness and originality.
The man likes to say that what matters to him are the flavours. The presentation may be fabulous, but if the dish itself doesn’t measure up…
Epur is perched high up, both literally and figuratively: the ground-level entrance on Largo da Academia das Artes actually leads up to a six-storey height overlooking Lisbon.
The view is magnificent and the angle quite rare. Epur has successfully integrated Lisbon into its philosophy. The capital seems tailor-made for its fine cuisine.
The website www.lisbonne-affinités.com has received a warm professional welcome at Epur
Sophistication as a matter of course
Chef Vincent Farges’s mastery ensures that his dishes are both extremely sophisticated and simple. A sleight of hand that stems from the chef’s solid experience.
Vincent Farges, having made his name in France in two- and three-star establishments, subsequently moved to Lisbon. He worked at the Guincho restaurant with the renowned chef Westermann. Together, they earned a Michelin star.
The Frenchman then travelled and immersed himself in other cuisines, such as those of Greece and Morocco, which enriched his expertise.
Vincent Farges fell in love with the 18th-century building where he has set up his restaurant. The adjoining rooms feature large windows overlooking the Baixa, the lower town.
An explosion of flavours for refined dining experiences
Epur is haute cuisine, or ‘fine dining’ as some like to call it. A Michelin star is a star, and it must be made to shine.
The solid techniques are French and draw on the centuries-old tradition of French culinary heritage.
Vincent Farges, who knows all these technical subtleties by heart, also likes to break away from them. The chef says himself that he has learnt to strip away the superfluous. “Sometimes people tell me I’ve pared things back too much. You need a balance,” he confides, amused.
The restaurant is neither French nor Portuguese. But it draws inspiration from these influences.
“It’s a cuisine of travel, of memory, of roots,” explains the Michelin-starred chef.
Indeed, it is this creative flair, devoid of flashy effects, that has built the reputation of Epur, its chef and his team.
And what about the dishes?
Epur’s dishes are remarkable for their precision. Juices, emulsions, innovative crumbles… Vincent Farges brings a highly original personal touch.
The tasting menu includes amuse-bouches such as Algarve prawns in jalapeño jelly with a pine cone and parsnip crumble, served with a pine needle infusion. Or an amuse-bouche of oxtail with anchovy butter.
The main courses are no less impressive. First, red mullet prepared two ways: the back lightly seared and the flesh as a tartare, hidden beneath a mussel. Combinations that transport you to the seaside. And all the way to the Azores, with grouper from the archipelago accompanied by an oyster tartare and a salicornia sauce.
While the sea is vibrant, the land is an invitation to a stroll through the forest. With a confit of venison served with smoked bacon, a wild garlic reduction accompanied by a red wine and cognac sauce, and served with a purée of sweet butter.
As for the desserts, they draw their flavours from the season. But they don’t forget the classic inspirations of chocolate and vanilla.
Classic? No! And www.lisbonne-affinités.com has been pleasantly surprised.
An informed guide to Epur
The Epur restaurant is located at Largo da Academia de Belas Artes
No. 14, Ground Floor
It is open from Tuesday to Saturday and serves lunch on Saturdays. Children aged 12 and over are welcome.
Epur offers two types of ‘Moments’
– the Inspirações (Inspirations) menu, €150, which can be paired with wines (€100)
– the Epurismo menu, €185. This can be paired with wine for an additional €100.